Help your customers embrace the world of gemstone durability.
As gemstones grow in popularity, the conversation around durability becomes more important than ever. This means taking the first step in ensuring your buyers are educated and aware of the characteristics of the stones they are purchasing. Customers may fall in love with a gem’s beauty, but they don’t always know how it holds up to daily wear. That’s where you come in.
What is Gemstone Durability
To put it simply, gemstone durability is the gemstone’s ability to withstand heat, light, wear, household chemicals, and humidity. This is often evaluated using three factors: hardness, toughness, and stability.
What is Hardness?
It can be quite difficult to test a gemstone’s hardness — it is the gem’s resistance to scratches and abrasions. If a gemologist were to test a gemstone’s hardness, they could risk damaging the precious stone. Because of this many evaluations are done through a series of observations by an expert.
A gemstone’s hardness is often placed on a scale from 1–10 according to the Mohs scale. Here each number is given a common gemstone or mineral to represent each level of hardness. This in turn gives specialists a reference for evaluating their own gemstones, whether it is with the hardest, diamonds, as a 10 or with the softest, talc, as a 1.
What is Toughness?
It can be easy to confuse a gem’s toughness with its hardness — to most people it would seem like it’s the same thing, but a gemstone’s toughness is its resistance to breaking and chipping. The scale used to measure the toughness of gemstones is often called the fracture toughness scale which measures the work required to separate two surfaces of a crystal. A gem’s toughness can not only be judged by the gem itself but also by the cut of the gem as certain cuts, such as pears and marquises, can leave even diamonds vulnerable to chipping.
What is Stability?
Stability is the gemstone’s ability to withstand heat, chemicals, and humidity. This can be a common cause for gemstone damage — for example, a customer’s pendant left in direct sunlight or even contact with a jeweler’s torch during prong repair — especially if the wearer is unaware of the precautions that must be taken when wearing certain gemstones. To help prevent damage to a stones stability, offer your customer ring or jewelry boxes to protect from outer elements. Unlike the other two durability factors, stability is not measured using a scale. However, information regarding the stability of gemstones is readily available through online or trusted sources, it is important to inform your customers of gemstones stability as it will tell them a vital piece of the gem’s story.
The Stone for the Occasion
When a customer decides to purchase a gemstone, it’s very important to ensure that they are fully informed about the stone’s durability and how it suits their lifestyle while also keeping in mind their personal preference. Where, how, and when a customer plans to wear the piece can greatly impact which gem is the right choice. By guiding them through these considerations, you help set the right expectations and ensure lasting satisfaction.
The Bridal Choice
Engagement rings and wedding bands are worn every day, making durability a top priority when helping your customers choose a gemstone. It’s essential to educate couples on the importance of selecting a stone that can withstand daily wear and tear. Gems such as diamonds, rubies, and sapphires are ideal choices for bridal pieces — not only for their timeless beauty but also for their exceptional hardness and resilience. By steering customers toward these durable options, you help ensure their ring remains as lasting as their commitment.
For Everyday Wear
If your buyer is choosing a gemstone for a piece that they will be wearing regularly, such as a birthstone ring or an anniversary band, it’s important to discuss both the stone’s durability and how the setting can help protect it. For softer gems that can be prone to scratching and chipping, recommend designs that offer extra protection. Designs with gypsy settings or bezel settings featuring stones cut in emerald, pear, or marquise shapes can help shield vulnerable edges and surfaces. By guiding customers toward protective settings, you help them enjoy their jewelry with confidence — without compromising on style.
For Special Occasions
Some gemstones are simply too soft or delicate for the wear and tear of daily life — but that doesn’t mean they can’t be part of a meaningful piece. If a customer falls in love with a softer gem, such as opal, turquoise, or even emerald, it’s a great idea to suggest reserving that piece for special occasions. This approach is especially helpful for future brides who want a unique center stone but are open to wearing a more durable placeholder ring for everyday use.
Wear with Care
Where a gemstone is worn plays a major role in how well it holds up over time. For jewelry that’s more exposed to bumps, knocks, and friction — such as rings and bracelets — it’s best to recommend harder, more durable stones or protective cuts and setting styles. These areas are more prone to impact during daily activities, thus needing more care or repairs in the future.
On the other hand, softer stones can be a great choice for earrings and necklaces where the risk of damage is much lower. Encourage your customers to consider placement when selecting their stones — this simple guidance can help preserve their jewelry’s appearance and structure for years to come.
Gemstone Care: The Dos and Dont's
Proper care is key to preserving the beauty and integrity of gemstone jewelry. Here are a few important dos and don’ts every jeweler should know.
Do
- Encourage proper storage and handling to avoid accidental damage
- Recommend protective settings or occasional wear options for more delicate stones
Don't
- Expose gemstones to harsh chemicals such as chlorine or bleach (Tip: It’s best to proceed with caution as harsh chemicals outside of approved cleaning solutions can also harm the integrity of the customer’s piece.)
- Wear gemstone jewelry while swimming, showering, or bathing
- Assume all gemstones have the same level of durability
Fun fact: If an Opal has been submerged in water, it can temporarily lose its play of color. But no need to fear — when left out to dry, it will turn back to its original shade.
Taking Care of Gemstone Jewelry
Keeping gemstone jewelry clean not only enhances its sparkle but also extends its life. The safest and easiest method is to use is warm water and a gentle soap. But be careful not to soak the piece for too long or use water that’s too hot, as this can damage certain stones or weaken settings. Be aware that some gemstones such as opals, turquoise, and pearls could be damaged by soaking in the water for too long, as well as their glue settings or strings.
For deep cleaning, soaking jewelry overnight in a small cup of warm water mixed with a gentle soap can help loosen built-up grime. For a quicker solution, try using a toothbrush with the same warm water and soap mixture to gently scrub away grit — be sure to be cautious with older pieces, as loose prongs or weakened joints may not handle pressure well.
Keep up Your Gemstone Knowledge
When it comes to sourcing gemstones you — and your customers — can trust, Stuller is your go-to destination. From durable everyday picks to special occasion treasures, we offer a wide range of quality stones to meet every need.
Looking to deepen your gemstone knowledge? Visit our website or call our Diamond and Gemstone team at 800-877-7777 option 5 for even more educational resources, tips, and tools to help you confidently guide your customers.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Guy Borenstein
Director of Gemstone Procurement and Senior Gemologist
Guy holds the highest recognitions and certifications in gemology from some of the most well-respected institutions around the world, such as the Gemological Institute of America, Gemmological Association of Great Britain, and more. As Stuller's senior gemologist, he maintains the integrity of the Stuller Gemological Lab.