Discover the secrets behind the sparkle.
Gemstones captivate us with their beauty and allure, but did you know that many undergo treatments to enhance their appearance and durability? These enhancements transform raw stones into marketable jewels that meet consumer demands for improved colors and clarity.
Gemstone treatments encompass a range of processes designed to improve a stone’s visual appeal and physical resilience. In this blog, we’ll explore various gemstone treatments, discuss their impact on value, and highlight a jeweler’s responsibility to disclose these enhancements to customers.
Understanding Gemstone Treatments
Enhancements refer to any treatment process, other than cutting and polishing, that improves a gemstone’s appearance, durability, or availability. The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Codes standardize the description of these treatments, aiding both consumers and industry professionals. Here’s a quick guide:
N – Natural
The “N” symbol appears on the chart only for natural stones which are not currently known to be enhanced; however, the “N” symbol can also be used for other natural gemstones in the event that a gemstone has received no enhancement and the seller will provide a guarantee that there has been none.
ASBL – Assembled
“ASBL” is the tag code for products made of multiple layers or combinations of manufactured and/or natural material fused, bonded, or otherwise joined together to increase stability and/or imitate the appearance of a natural gemstone, create a unique design, or generate unusual color combinations.
B – Bleaching
The use of heat, light, and/or other agents to lighten or remove a gemstone’s color.
C – Coating
The use of such surface enhancements as lacquering, enameling, inking, foiling, or sputtering of films to improve appearance, provide color, or add other special effects.
D – Dyeing
The introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give it new color, intensify present color, or improve color uniformity.
F – Filling
The filling of surface-breaking cavities or fissures with colorless glass, plastic, solidified borax, or similar substances. This process may improve durability, appearance, and/or add weight.
H- Heating
The use of heat to effect desired alteration of color, clarity, and/or phenomena. If residue of foreign substances in open fissures is visible under properly illuminated 10X magnification H and F should be used.
HP – Heating and Pressure
The use of heat and pressure to effect desired alterations of color, clarity, and/or phenomena.
IMIT – Imitation
“IMIT” is the tag code used for a manufactured product fabricated in such materials as glass, ceramic, or plastic designed to imitate or resemble the appearance, but not duplicate the characteristic properties of a natural gemstone.
“IMIT” is also the tag code for a simulant, which is defined as man-made single crystal product that is used to simulate the appearance, but not duplicate the characteristic properties of the natural gemstone it imitates.
I – Impregnation
The impregnation of a porous gemstone with a colorless agent (usually plastic) to improve durability and appearance.
L – Lasering
The use of a laser and chemicals to reach and alter inclusions in gemstones, usually diamonds.
O – Oiling/Resin Infusion
The filling of surface-breaking fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin, or other colorless substances, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone’s appearance.
SYN – Synthetic
The tag code may be used to describe “synthetic” materials that have essentially the same optical, physical and chemical properties as a naturally occurring counterpart.
R – Irradiation
The use of neutrons, gamma rays or beta particles (high energy electrons) to alter a gemstone’s color. The irradiation may be followed by a heating process.
U – Diffusion
The use of chemicals in conjunction with high temperatures to produce artificial color change and/or asterism-producing inclusions.
W – Waxing/Oiling
The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin, and oil in porous opaque or translucent gemstones to improve appearance.
Why We Use Gemstone Treatments
Enhancing Aesthetics
The primary purpose of gemstone treatments is to enhance the visual appeal of gemstones. Treatments such as heating, dyeing, and coating can significantly improve color and clarity, transforming less vibrant stones into dazzling treasures. These enhancements allow jewelers to offer a wider range of beautiful gemstones to their customers.
Increasing Durability
Certain treatments are applied to increase the longevity and wearability of gemstones. Processes such as filling and impregnation can reinforce the stone’s structure, making it more resistant to chips and scratches. This added durability ensures that gemstones can withstand daily wear and continue to look stunning for years.
Meeting Market Demand
Consumer preferences often drive the need for specific colors and appearances in gemstones. Treatments allow jewelers to meet this demand, providing options that might not be available naturally. As a result, customers can find the exact hues and styles they desire, from deep blues to vibrant reds.
Ensuring Availability
Treatments also play a crucial role in making less-desirable stones marketable. By enhancing their appearance and durability, these stones become viable options for consumers. This not only meets demand but also ensures a steady supply of gemstones.
How Treatments Impact Value
The value of a gemstone is not only determined by its natural beauty but also by consumer preferences, market trends, and treatments applied. Historically, untreated stones have commanded higher prices due to their rarity and natural beauty. Collectors and investors often favor these stones for their intrinsic value and authenticity.
However, well-executed treatments can turn otherwise unremarkable stones into visually stunning pieces, making them attractive and competitively priced options for customers who prioritize appearance over natural origins.
A Jeweler’s Duty to Disclose
Transparency in disclosing gemstone treatments is a Federal Trade Commission requirement and fundamental ethical obligation for jewelers. Treatments, such as heating, irradiation, and oiling, can significantly alter a gemstone’s appearance and value. It’s crucial for jewelers to disclose these treatments so customers can make informed decisions about their purchases.
Educating customers about these enhancements helps demystify the buying process and empowers them to understand the implications, such as changes in durability or value. By openly communicating about gemstone treatments, jewelers build trust and exhibit respect for their customers’ rights to full disclosure. To learn more about gemstones, visit Stuller’s Gemstone Information Center.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Harold Dupuy
Vice President of Strategic Analysis
Harold Dupuy has had a multi-faceted career in the jewelry industry. In four decades, he has held many roles, ranging from executive leadership in a large public corporation to the operation of an independent store. Harold also owned and operated a private appraisal practice and gemological laboratory before joining Stuller. He is a Fellow of the Gemological Association of Great Britain, a Graduate Gemologist (GIA), and a Master Gemologist Appraiser (ASA Retired). Harold draws on this diverse background to analyze, anticipate, and act on shifting currents in the international jewelry market.