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Simple French Cut Stone Setting Tips

Here's how to prepare and grow your stone setting techniques

French cut stone setting is a technique that places smaller round diamonds close together, similar to pave or bright cut setting.

In this process, diamonds are secured by wedging metal over the stone instead of a typical prong. The metal underneath and around the diamonds is highly polished and bright cut. The wedged area in between the stones is bright cut using a polished graver that creates a brilliant butterfly effect.

What’s the benefit of French Cut Stone Setting?

The benefit of this set type is that it makes the diamonds appear to float in place with not much metal covering them. Since all of the metal is brilliantly polished and bright cut, the reflections of light around and through the diamonds create a very vibrant look that is superior to typical prong settings. This is why french set is widely popular in bridal designs. And because the metal is wedged over the stones, it’s more secure and more likely to remain in place during its lifetime compared to typical prong settings.

Here’s how it’s done:

We use a 45º angle cut to wedge the metal apart. To create this wedge, we use a blank graver, and with a power hone, we sand the blank graver into a 45º angled cut.

stone setting

 

To make the bright cut angle for the prongs, which would be the french cut look, we use a 75º Glen Steel precut graver.

stone setting tools
36-2541

We sand and polish the graver to a shine on the power hone.

stone setting

To sand, we use 1200 grit and ceramic wheel to get the finished look.

stone setting

stone setting tools
26-4041

 

 

 

 

To enhance the finished look of your 75º graver, use diamond spray on the ceramic wheel when using the power hone.

 

 

 

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Have you tried the French cut? What was your experience like? Do you have any additional thoughts or questions? Share with us in the comments below.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Brett Northcutt

Model Director

I've been with Stuller since 1991 • I was born in Tripoli, Libya, it’s a long story • My art teacher in high school introduced me to jewelry making • I love to fly airplanes • I went to jewelry school in Paris…Texas • I love to cook for the family.