Sell With a Story: Black Rose-Cut Diamonds

SWAS Black Rose Cut Diamonds

Black diamonds are back in fashion. So are rose-cut stones. And when you put them together, you have a distinctive combination that lends itself to custom designs. Black rose-cut diamonds offer customers a look that stands out from the crowd as sophisticated, personal, and elegant.  I’m all about big and sparkly, but not every customer feels that way. Many prefer a subtler, understated look that intrigues the eye. Also, women who lead active lives appreciate a rose-cut’s low profile.  

What’s Old is New

Over the last twenty years, millennials and Gen Zs have increasingly embraced vintage looks, and along with this, vintage-inspired jewelry styles have enjoyed a renaissance. These designs feature delicate beading, milgrain, filigree accents, and more. It wasn’t long before customers wanted to make their looks more authentic with distinctive rose-cut diamonds. And black diamonds? Absolutely.  

Unfolding Petals

The rose-cut originated in India around 1520. Later that century, when the rose-cut reached Venice — already a gemstone cutting hub — the city’s stone cutters used newly developed tools to refine its faceting. It reached its peak of popularity during the Georgian and Victorian eras (roughly 1754 to 1900). Round rose-cut diamonds have 24 triangular facets that suggest an unfolding rose, which explains its name. The stone has a faceted, domed top and a flat or slightly rounded bottom.


Remember the “little black dress” — a woman’s go-to favorite for business and celebrations? A rose-cut black diamond ring, pendant, earrings, or all three, carries the same panache. They make fabulous studs or drop earrings, suit many different ring styles, and add allure when set in a pendant or necklace center. For a dramatic look, surround them with a colorless diamond halo.  

Say “Yes”

Rose-cut black diamonds are perfect for an engagement ring, a trendy look, or a classic with a twist. Who would choose one? A fashion-forward customer who embraces her own sense of style, constantly seeking the unexpected. Or she could be a customer who wants to create a vintage design down to the smallest detail. Or perhaps she’s a customer who finds a rose-cut black diamond ring irresistible. Have one in your case, and you’ll be surprised by who it will attract.   

Mr. Big Gives Carrie the New Black

For you fans of Sex and the City, you know what I’m talking about. It happens near the end of the second movie when Big gives Carrie Bradshaw a fabulous five-carat black diamond ring. (Some people call it an engagement ring, but it’s actually their first anniversary!) And why did he choose the black diamond? His famous answer: “Because you are not like anyone else.” Doesn’t every woman want to hear that?  Though black diamonds had long established themselves as an homage to vintage style, Carrie’s ring — designed by Itay Malkin — has clean, modern lines made romantic by the contrast of the black center stone with the colorless gold and melee diamonds. If we needed any proof, this made it clear: black diamonds look gorgeous set in whatever style pleases your customer.

An Enduring Symbol

Whatever reason your customer chooses a rose-cut black diamond, the stone has potent symbolism. Like colorless diamonds, black diamonds embody love, fidelity, and eternity. But black diamonds go beyond that, symbolizing power, charisma, certainty, and passion. I think most women will love these meanings. 

Lab-Grown Diamonds: Knowing What You’re Getting

All signs indicate that the lab-grown diamond’s market share will continue to grow. This assortment lets you offer customers more options — with lab-grown, customers can choose a better color or larger diamond for the same price as a natural diamond. Lab-grown diamonds often give you a better margin, a novelty in diamonds. 

CanadaMark Melee Diamonds

Unparallel Lines

Unfortunately, the influx of lab-grown diamonds to the market raises a dilemma. Thousands of undisclosed lab-grown diamonds (ULGDs) — particularly melee — find their way into the vast streams coming out of diamond hubs today. So how can you know for sure if the diamonds and diamond jewelry you order is natural or perhaps a ULGD?

Choose Certainty

Stuller has a Zero Tolerance Policy for ULGDs, so when you purchase from Stuller, you have absolute certainty and can share that trust and confidence with your customers. We screen every colorless and near-colorless loose diamond and piece of diamond jewelry that enters our manufacturing facility — no exceptions. Our approach to screening ULGDs uses the most sophisticated and effective technology in the industry, so you can rest assured that when you order a natural diamond, that’s what you’ll receive.

Natural Round Melee Diamonds

We have a strategic service arrangement with GIA® (Gemological Institute of America), a separate entity from Stuller. The independent Melee Analysis by GIA lab in Stuller’s Lafayette facility has GIA specialists who use proprietary technology to screen round melee diamonds in sizes of 0.005ct through 0.24ct – our best sellers! After screening, their technology sorts the stones based on color grade, the industry benchmark. When ordering GIA-screened melee, a customer will receive their diamonds in a gray parcel sealed with a GIA sticker along with an assurance card, for easy identification.

GIA Melee Lab-Grown Diamonds

Eye-Catching Blue

We store and ship LGDs in distinct blue packaging. Lab-Grown Diamonds will arrive at your door in a blue parcel. Lab-grown diamonds weighing 0.33ct and larger come with an assurance card notating the inscription on the girdle and that they have been screened by the Stuller Gemological Lab. If we are setting jewelry with LGDs, the diamonds travel from workstation to workstation in a blue work sleeve alerting all associates who work on the jewelry piece that there are lab-grown diamonds inside. 

Do We Stop There?

Not even close. As added security, we further require our suppliers to screen all diamonds for lab-grown diamonds. Random samples of diamonds from all our suppliers are also periodically sent out to leading laboratories to check for lab-grown diamonds. These protocols let Stuller extend confidence and security to you, ensuring you get precisely what you purchase.

Stuller’s strategic partnership with GIA helps us ensure that you’re getting exactly what you order every single time. Our industry-leading processes help to ensure that we keep track of each stone we handle and that we are as fully transparent from the time of purchase through to delivery.

Specialty Diamonds for Fashionistas

Amplify sophistication with chic, trendy specialty diamonds, the new darling of fashionistas and organic connoisseurs. Do these two groups agree on anything? Definitely — on these intriguing diamonds. Customers can choose from an array of conversation starters featuring distinctive colors, textures, and shapes. Many of these diamonds are rose cut, but you’ll also discover faceted stones.

Personality Plus

Customers want jewelry that expresses who they are. It can be subtle or bold, but it needs to reflect a value or feeling. Is it any wonder these distinctly different diamonds have captured their imagination? These customers embrace styles with personality. You can assure them that we hand select each specialty diamond. Then we give it an identifying number to emphasize each is one of a kind distinguished by its unique characteristics.

specialty diamonds

Salt & Pepper

These daring beauties turn the 4C’s upside down with a dramatic reinterpretation of color and inclusions. They are individually selected and desired for their beauty and uniqueness. Each salt and pepper diamond has hundreds if not thousands of inclusions that mix light and dark to create a distinctively textured appearance. The colors include misty gray, ash gray, and marbled gray, available in various shapes, including hexagons and kites — another way to achieve an individualized look.

salt and pepper specialty diamonds

Brown, Yellow, Green & Beyond

These unique specialty diamonds feature natural shadings and intriguing textures that result from their inclusions. Each stone has its own subtle, sophisticated color. The yellow diamonds range from light and golden yellow to brownish and opaque yellow. The brown specialty diamonds range from light brown and brownish-gray to orange and dark orange-brown. Our green specialty diamonds are a grayish-green.

specialty diamonds

Mesmerizing Color

Other diamonds in this selection come in highly prized colors, sizes, and shapes. Take a look at these blue cushion diamonds, which boast a startlingly gorgeous pale royal shade. Unusual shapes and sizes distinguish the specialty diamonds from our standard color-enhanced diamonds.                                        

opaque white specialty diamond
Opaque white diamond

Beyond White

The white specialty diamond has proven very popular. It goes beyond the colorless-near colorless range to reach an almost opalescent white with multi-colored inclusions. Irresistible? Absolutely.

Look Closely

Each specialty diamond is a natural work of art with colors, textures, and handcrafted shapes, unlike any other diamond. They feature different types and colors of inclusions making each uniquely beautiful. And each specialty diamond comes packaged in our popular gel boxes

Diamond Education: How to Choose the Right Diamond Screener?

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Protecting the integrity of your inventory is paramount. Understanding the differences between testing and screening while using the most appropriate instruments for each process will best protect your reputation.

Selecting an Instrument

With lab-grown Diamonds gaining a stronger presence in the marketplace, screeners and testers are no longer optional to include in your operations. They’re essential.

When purchasing a diamond screener or tester, ask yourself the following:

  • What stone specifications (size, color, shape, and loose or mounted) will I be testing?
  • How many stones will I be processing at a time — singles or large quantities?
  • What is my level of expertise with testing?
  • Do I need a portable or stationary instrument?
  • What is my budget?
  • Do I need to test for simulants?

Once you have your answers, you can identify the devices that fit your needs.

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Best Practices

  1. Remember, no single device can do it all — no exceptions.
  2. Understand your tester’s capabilities. Then, choose a device based on the features you need.
  3. Avoid false readings due to improper usage. False readings — such as a Diamond reading as a created Moissanite — may occur by holding your device improperly or testing on a nonconductive material. So, it’s imperative to read your device’s user manual. For added security, practice on known stones.
  4. Keep up with the latest technology. If it’s been years since you last bought a tester, look into newer devices. Each year, testing technology gets better, so older instruments may not have modern testing capabilities.

Diamond Testers

Testing is the process by which Diamonds are definitively identified. These instruments typically separate stones based off their thermal and electrical conductivity, but they have their limits. Learn the limitations of your tester and know when to bring in another device (or send it off to a lab with more advanced equipment). Shop Diamond testers on Stuller.com.

Diamond Screeners

Screening is the process by which mined Diamonds are separated from lab-grown Diamonds. Since it’s impossible to identify a Diamond’s growth origin by sight alone, screening equipment is the surest way to determine whether a Diamond is mined or lab-grown.

Furthermore, screening is distinctly different from detection, which involves positive identification of a mined Diamond, lab-grown Diamond, or simulant. Find the right Diamond screener on Stuller.com.

Diamond Screener Promise Gem Lab

Introducing the DiaTrue Diamond Scanner

The DiaTrue CS and the DiaTrue CXL by OGI Systems are instruments that combine the functionality of multiple machines to ensure maximum security. These machines can detect and identify:

  • Mined Diamonds
  • HPHT lab-grown Diamonds
  • CVD lab-grown Diamonds
  • Created Moissanite
  • Cubic Zirconia
  • CVD-Coated Cubic Zirconia and Moissanite

Both scanners have an embedded 10.9-inch touch screen that displays results in clear, easy-to-read colors. These machines can archive stone data for later use as well as create and print certificates.

The new DiaTrue CXL features a 13×10 cm tray space to accommodate larger parcels, finished goods, watches, and more.

Why do I need a Diamond Screener?

Diamonds enter your store from many sources. Whether buying Diamonds from a dealer or taking in jewelry for repairs and remounts, there are many opportunities for undisclosed stones to enter your stock. You must be absolutely certain of your inventory and take all measures to avoid undisclosed lab-grown Diamonds — because your reputation is at stake.

Luckily, the DiaTrue combines the functionality of multiple machines to ensure total assurance. This device can detect natural Diamonds, CVD and HPHT lab-grown Diamonds, Cubic Zirconia, and Moissanite — all in one scan. Operate with confidence knowing you’ve got the right tool to positively identify lab-grown Diamonds and simulants.

Shop the DiaTrue Diamond Scanner on Stuller.com

Once you choose the right diamond screener, you’ll be on your way to passing peace of mind to customers and securing your reputation as a trusted professional.

Diamond Education: How Does Stuller Uphold Its Diamond Screening Promise?

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How many undisclosed Lab-Grown Diamonds are you willing to sell? For Stuller, the answer is zero. That’s why we screen 100% of all colorless and near-colorless diamonds that pass through our hands. We uphold our diamond screening promise to protect you, the independent jeweler, your customers, and the industry. It is a question of integrity. It’s also a requirement of the FTC Guides for the Jewelry Industry.

How does Stuller uphold its Diamond screening promise?


Many years ago, when Stuller began screening for undisclosed lab-grown Diamonds, we took several important steps. We reviewed every way a Diamond entered our building and evaluated the risk levels based on the probability of contamination associated with each supply. This helps everyone down the pipeline to understand risk levels associated with each avenue into Stuller.

From there, we developed new processes or modified existing procedures to ensure that we screen all Diamonds arriving at Stuller. In short, we leave no Diamond unturned or unscreened.

Diamond Screening Promise Gem Lab

Our Diamond Screening Promise

As a major supplier, we are in a position to protect our supply chain, your reputation, and your customer’s confidence. We gladly accept this responsibility by maintaining:

  • A zero-tolerance policy for Undisclosed Lab-Grown Diamonds that places stringent testing requirements on all of our suppliers.
  • The Stuller Gem Lab, an advanced diamond screening lab managed by a full-time Graduate Gemologist.
  • A strategic services arrangement with GIA® to screen and color grade all round melee sizes 0.005 CT through 0.24 CT.
  • The ability to screen all shapes and sizes of colorless and near-colorless melee (D to N) as well as set jewelry.
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Diamond Screening Milestones

2012: Stuller begins screening all Diamonds 15 carat and larger for ULGDs using an early screening machine.

2014: Stuller acquired the sophisticated Automated Melee Screening Device (AMS) from DeBeers’ IIDGR division. It screens round Diamonds 1.4mm and larger providing an effective and efficient way to test melee.

2016: Stuller added IIDGR’s (DeBeers) PhosView, which allowed us to screen all shapes that are High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) grown.

2017: Stuller added the AMS2 (the second generation of the original AMS) to our Diamond screening process. This technology screens round and fancy shapes, as small as 0.85mm detecting both HPHT and CVD grown Diamonds, screening 10 times faster (3,600 stones per hour) than the original AMS (which we continue to use).

Stuller added the GIA® iD100which combines advanced spectroscopic technology to identify natural Diamonds giving results in two seconds.

2018: Stuller added the J-Smart Plus to batch screen all Diamond-set products. Stuller also added the DiaTrue CS (by OGI) to screen set rings and parcels of stones.

Diamond Screening Promise Gem Lab

Stuller Gem Lab

Stuller Gem Lab uses the latest advanced technologies available to separate natural Diamonds from their lab-grown counterparts. These two supplies are kept totally separate from one another. Their paths never cross to ensure complete confidence. All lab-grown melee Diamonds are kept in a separate room within the facility, and their containers are clearly labeled.

To stay at the forefront of Diamond screening, we continuously invest in the latest technology. The Stuller Gem Lab has a multi-tier screening process managed by a full-time graduate gemologist. All colorless and near-colorless Diamonds and Diamond jewelry entering our facility are screened on an array of technologies depending on shape and size. Referrals from these screening technologies receive a final determination from our gemologist who performs further screening or is sent to a GIA® Advanced Lab.

Diamond Screening Promise Gem Lab

GIA® Melee Analysis

In addition to all of these internal controls, Stuller has established a strategic service arrangement with GIA (Gemological Institute of America®) by offering GIA’s Melee Analysis Service inside our global headquarters in Lafayette, Louisiana. All round melee from sizes 0.005 CT through 0.24 CT are screened on-site by GIA staff independently operating the GIA-owned analytical instrumentation in a dedicated, secure space.

This results from a strong continuous collaboration between Stuller and GIA leadership. GIA is the most trusted gemological authority in the industry. Therefore, there is no one better than GIA for Stuller to rely on to deliver on our commitment to correctly represent the product we are selling.

Learn more about Stuller’s extensive diamond screening promise here on Stuller.com

Diamond Education: How are Lab-Grown Diamonds Created?

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Lab-grown diamonds are an increasingly popular, attractively priced center stone option. In the past few years, we’ve seen a growing trend among consumers toward interest and acceptance of lab-grown diamonds.

In July 2019, MVI Marketing asked 1,154 millennial consumers aged 21–36 if they’d consider a lab-grown diamond for the center stone of their engagement ring. A whopping 67% said yes — and 21% said maybe.

Remember, your knowledge gives you the opportunity to build trust.

Read on to learn about the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds as well as how lab-grown diamonds are created.

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Diamonds Types

Natural diamonds built the industry, and you can say they’re pretty timeless: they formed 1.0 to 3.5 billion years ago. Their age and their unrivaled cultural symbolism — “a diamond is forever” — support their long-standing appeal.

Based on their impurities, all diamonds are divided into two types:

Type I Diamonds

Type I diamonds contain nitrogen and account for 98% of natural diamonds. According to the cluster arrangement of those nitrogen atoms, this category is further subdivided into two types: Type 1a and Type 1b.

  • Type 1a diamonds are plentiful, and their color varies from near-colorless to light yellow.
  • Type 1b diamonds are rare and typically strong yellow in color.

Type II Diamonds

Type II diamonds have no measurable level of nitrogen and account for only 2% of natural diamonds. Then, they are further subdivided. If containing boron, diamonds are Type IIb. If not, they are Type IIa.

  • Type IIa diamonds have no measurable levels of nitrogen or boron. They are usually colorless but also come in shades of light brown. Many of the world’s historical diamonds — like the Cullinan and the Koh-i-Noor — are type IIa.
  • Type IIb diamonds — unlike all other types — conduct electricity and exhibit beautiful blue or blue-gray shades due to the presence of boron. The Hope Diamond is the most famous type IIb diamond. *NOTE: Some IIb diamonds with trace amounts of boron remain colorless, yet still conduct electricity. Likewise, Moissanite is electrically conductive. Because of this, probe-type testers measuring for conductivity may falsely call out type IIb diamonds as Moissanite.

That’s quite a range for diamonds to fall into, but what about lab-grown diamonds? As it turns out, they play by slightly different rules — solely thanks to the method in which they’re grown.

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Lab-Grown Diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds exhibit the same optical, physical, and chemical properties as natural diamonds. Unlike natural diamonds, which can be either type I or type II, all colorless lab-grown diamonds are type II.

While it is nearly impossible to detect lab-grown diamonds by sight, the growing process leaves behind evidence of any diamond’s origin. Advanced screening and testing equipment is necessary here. (Just remember — no single device can do it all.)

So, How Are Lab-Grown Diamonds Created?

Lab-Grown Diamond Shot Serial NumberLab-grown diamonds got their start in the ‘50s with General Electric — yes, the power company. Although General Electric (specifically, H. Tracy Hall, but that’s a story for another day) pioneered lab-grown diamonds, they grew these diamonds through just one process. Today, there are two.

We’ll start with the first.

Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD)

The CVD process was invented first— in 1952 by William Eversole at Union Carbide. This process allows diamonds to grow in an entirely different way than the HPHT process. CVD starts with a natural diamond slice (or seed) placed in a chamber and exposed to less extreme temperatures (approximately 1,200–3,000 degrees Fahrenheit) and lower pressure (100 – 550 PSI).

Recent advancements have made this growth process more advantageous. Methane and hydrogen gas are injected into the chamber and combined with high heat. The electrons separate, forming plasma gas. The freed carbon then rains down on the seed, growing new diamond crystals. Typically, this process produces brown or gray diamonds, which are turned colorless through an HPHT annealing process. This process takes several days to a few weeks.

High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT)

The HPHT process grows diamonds using diamond presses, machines that mimic the extreme conditions that form diamonds within Earth’s upper mantle: intense pressure (725,000 – 870,000 PSI) and intense heat (2,300–2,900 degrees Fahrenheit). In this process, diamond source powder dissolves in molten metal flux and deposits on diamond seed crystals.

This process dates back to 1954. By the 1970s, General Electric started commercially producing “gem-quality” HPHT lab-grown diamonds. In the following years, General Electric and other companies grew larger sizes of non-gem-quality diamonds strictly for industrial use. Since then, HPHT technology has come a long way, now growing lab-grown diamonds for use in jewelry. This process takes several days to a few weeks.

Learn more about Lab-Grown Diamonds at Stuller.com/LabGrownDiamondsInfo

Stuller Has Just Screened Its 1,000,000th Diamond!

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Earlier this year, Stuller opened its doors to an on-site, independently-operated GIA Melee Analysis Service. Since April, GIA has screened round, D-to-Z color melee from 0.9mm to 4.0mm parcels coming through the building— scanning 1,800 to 2,000 stones per hour! Well, guess what?


We’ve Just Screened our MILLIONTH Diamond!

That’s right, more than 1,000,000 diamonds have passed through the GIA Melee Analysis Service at Stuller’s global headquarters in Lafayette, LA.

GIA Melee Analysis Service Diamonds

Why does this matter?

We brought the GIA Melee Analysis Service to Stuller headquarters to make certain that every diamond we sell is correctly represented. By partnering with GIA, we’re ensuring the most precise screening processes in the industry. After all, with over 60 years of synthetic diamond research, GIA is the foremost authority on diamond screening and authenticity.

Our industry-leading efforts promise to leave no stone unturned. With lab-grown diamonds moving into the marketplace, it’s more important now than ever to preserve the integrity of our inventory. With help from the GIA Melee Analysis Service, we confidently stand behind every stone we sell. And in turn, you can pass that confidence and trust on to your customers.

What can you do?

Begin by fully understanding the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds. First off, lab-grown diamonds are not simulants— they have the same chemical composition and crystal structure as naturally mined diamonds. Secondly, there are two processes used to create lab-grown diamonds, High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) method, and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) method.

As a jewelry professional, it is important to make sure that you are able to give your customers peace of mind. In order to do that, it’s important that you equip yourself with the right tools. To get started, here are a few suggested questions to ask yourself to help you decide the instrument that is best for you:

1. Will you be screening loose diamonds, mounted jewelry, or both?

2. What size diamonds will you be screening?

3. Are you screening center stones or melee? What shapes will you be screening?

4. Do you want the instrument to be manual or automated?

GIA Melee Analysis Service Diamond Testers

Remember, no single instrument can do it all

Once you’ve answered these questions, it’s time to start your research. Here’s a link to Stuller’s website that features different types of screening equipment for both diamonds and gemstones. Remember, no one instrument screens for everything, which is why it’s very important to read the details for each piece of equipment before purchasing. And if you think these instruments are expensive, consider the cost of unintentionally selling a lab-grown diamond as a natural diamond and ask yourself this question: What is my reputation worth?

Shop Diamond Screeners on Stuller.com

Here is a handy comparison of natural vs. lab-grown diamonds—